Sunday, April 29, 2012

Valentine's Gifts from Kids to Mom and Dad

Looking for some great Valentine's Day gift ideas for your parents? Some kids write captions like "We treasure you", "We scored big with you" or "We love you" on a chart paper. Others put in order a photo frame, carrying the words "You are the Best Mom/Dad in the world". Let's look some more gift ideas.

Valentine's Gift Ideas

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A green 'Valentine' tree with heart-shaped ornaments and topped with an "I love you" note and can make a festive gift for your parents. So does a magnet boasting tiny photos of house members that are pasted on magnetic paper to stick on the refrigerator.

Children of all ages, even adult children, can gather modern photographs of the house members and put in order a mini scrapbook. A 'Kiss Jar' is a fun gift, too, prepared by painting the surface of a jar with hearts and kisses and adding Hershey's candy kisses inside. Other neat gift is a puzzle pin is prepared by arranging old jigsaw puzzle pieces.

Mother and children statues are an apt Valentine's Day gift. So are themed gifts like giving a small box that represents a room where inside the box the recipient will find stuffed teddy bears sitting on a sofa with "We Love our Parents" written on a tiny photograph hanging over the sofa, and a 'bears family' with the house names written on each bear drawn on an along card.

To go along with the gift, or as a gift in itself, a cake that is shaped like the word Dad or Mom can be prepared at home.

Don't forget that greeting cards and flowers are former gifts, all the time good for recipients of any age. And fingerprint cards can be prepared at home if you're seeing for more unique gift cards.

Valentine's Gifts for Mom

Kids can gift the following Valentine's gifts for mom - House Helper Card, I Love You Card, Photo House Card, Thumb Bunny Card, Pop-Up Bouquet Card, Wheel of Affection, Abc Book of Mom, Bagel portraits, Brooches to Brag About, Cameo Necklace, Handprint Apron, Handprint Towels, Kitchen Angel, Button Bracelet, Paper Blossoms, Spa Door Hanger, Sparkling Sun Catcher, Treasure Box, You and Me Book. A necklace or bangle or earring will evoke memories everyday. Diner style mug is good for daily use. Three cubical candles that together spell Mom, which have a 46-hour burning time is ideal for celebration. A Pacific Revolution Waist Bag can also fit within the budget.

Valentine's Gifts for Dad

Kids can gift the following Valentine's gifts for dad - A Pup for Pop, Computer Frame, Daddy Duct Dollars, Funny faced refrigerator Magnets, house Key Keeper, Golf Ball Mobile, house Key Keeper, 5 Fab Crafts for Dad, Formal Greetings, Me and You Book, Painted Pebbles, Personalized Hobby Boxes, Treasure Box, Chore Card, Collage Card, Photo House Card, Thumb Bunny Card, photograph Puzzle, Memo pads & Paperweights and Best Dad Certificate. The Hairy Daddy Longlegs Cupcakes can be prepared at home. Kids may make a sweetmeat or bake a cake at home. Kids can honor their dad, a morning meal of Omelet, Cheese Tart or Baked French Toast.

Valentine's Gifts from Kids to Mom and Dad

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Friday, April 27, 2012

Turkey the Old-Fashioned Way

There are many appetizing ways to put in order and serve turkey. It might be deep-fried, brined, poached, grilled...to mention just a few methods of preparation. This article, however, will focus strictly on tips and techniques for establishment excellent turkey the old-fashioned way - oven roasted.

Basic Technique for Roasting a Turkey...

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1. The safest recipe for thawing a freezing turkey is by allowing the turkey to thaw in the refrigerator. Be determined to plan ahead...it will take practically 3 days for a 20 pound turkey to defrost.

2. everyone wants to put in order adequate turkey for the number of guests they serve, and commonly desire to have some turkey left over. To resolve the precise turkey size that will be needed, see the section below entitled 'How Much Turkey is Enough?'

3. Cooking time will differ depending on whether the turkey was purchased fresh or frozen. Fancy approximate cooking time in a 350F (175C) oven based on the following: 20 minutes per pound for a defrosted turkey, and 10 to 15 minutes per pound for fresh.

4. A turkey will cook more evenly if it is not densely stuffed. As an alternative, flavor may be added by loosely filling the cavity with aromatic vegetables and/or fruit -- carrots, celery, onions, apples, oranges, kumquats or garlic. Thought about tucking fresh herbs underneath the breast skin will also add flavor.

5. Before roasting, coat the surface of the turkey with vegetable or olive oil and season with salt and pepper.

6. For even roasting, it is best to truss the turkey, and especially so if roasting stuffed poultry. (See 'How to Truss a Turkey' below.)

7. Set the turkey on a rack in a large roasting pan to promote maximum air and heat circulation and to ensure that it cooks evenly. To yield moister, juicier white meat, place the turkey 'breast-down' on the rack. This technique will forestall the turkey breast from overcooking and becoming dry.

8. Set the roasting pan on the bottom rack of the oven to keep the turkey away from the top, which is the hottest part of the oven.

9. Once the turkey is cooking in the oven, resist the temptation to 'peek' inside by opening the oven door. opening and conclusion the oven door will cause the climatic characteristic to fluctuate, which will only increase the likelihood of a dry turkey. Avoid opening the oven door until practically 45 minutes before the turkey unbelievable to be done.

10. After checking for doneness (see 'When is the Turkey Done?' guidelines below), take off roasting pan from the oven, tent the turkey with foil and let it 'rest' for practically 15 minutes before carving (see tips on 'How to Carve a Turkey' below). If supplementary time is needed to put in order gravy, heat up side dishes, etc., the turkey may be allowed to sit at room climatic characteristic (covered) for up to an hour without losing too much heat.

11. Refrigerate any leftover turkey within 2 to 3 hours of preparation. Store in airtight, shallow packaging to allow adequate circulation of cool air; date and label the containers. Turkey may be safely stored refrigerated for practically 5 days and freezing for up to 4 months.

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How Much Turkey is Enough?

On average, to provide 2 servings of turkey for each guest (and allowing for leftovers), the suggested weights are as follows:

> 10 pound turkey for 6 people

> 12 pound turkey for 8 people

> 15 pound turkey for 10 people

> 18 pound turkey for 12 people

> 21 pound turkey for 14 people

> 24 pound turkey for 16 people

- If you will be serving more than 16 guests (a recommended turkey size of more than 24 pounds), buy two turkeys that equal the total suggested weights.

- If the recommended turkey size is less than 12 pounds, you may wish to buy a turkey breast to roast.

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How to Truss a Turkey...

To 'truss' means to collect poultry or meat into a covenant shape. Trussing will ensure even roasting. The following technique is recommended when roasting poultry, especially a stuffed turkey.

1. To truss with string, take a piece of butcher's string about three times the distance of the turkey. Place the turkey on its back, tail end nearest to you. Slide the string underneath so that it is cradling the turkey in the center of its back.

2. Gently pull the string up the sides...then colse to the wings. Pull the strings toward you, close to the breast, so that the wings are held against the body.

3. Cross the strings at the base of the breast, then wrap each string colse to the end of a drumstick.

4. Tie the ends of the string together, cinching it tightly so that the legs cross.

5. Finally, lift the turkey so that the tail end is up and wrap the string colse to the tail. Tie the string, pulling tightly so that the cavity is covered by the tail.

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When is the Turkey Done?

You will want to test your instant-read or primary meat thermometer a few days before establishment the turkey to ensure it is properly calibrated. Place the thermometer in a pot of boiling water. It should register 212F (100C) -- water's boiling point at sea level. If the reading does not reach the desired temperature, you will want to buy a new thermometer.

Keep a rigorous eye on the thermometer during the last half hour of cooking since the internal climatic characteristic may rise rapidly toward the end.

Using a meat thermometer, test for doneness in the thickest, meatiest parts of the turkey:

Test the widest section of the breast near the wing joint; the climatic characteristic should be 165F (73C).

Test the legs at the top of the thigh, near the hip joint; the climatic characteristic should be 180 (82C).

If cooking a stuffed turkey, resolve the internal climatic characteristic of the stuffing as well; it should be at least 165F (73C).

If using an instant-read thermometer, insert it deep adequate to reach the heat sensor (the indentation about two-inches from the tip).

Also eye the juices and oils at the bottom of the pan that are released during cooking. If they have a pinkish tinge, continue roasting; if they are clear, the turkey is probably done. (Try to insert the thermometer as infrequently as possible, to forestall the juices from escaping.)

Another way of checking for doneness is to move the leg up and down. The looser it becomes, the closer it is to being done.

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How to Carve a Turkey...

To carve a turkey, it is requisite that you use a sharp carving knife and a good, heavy-weight fork. The following instructions will make carving a turkey practically effortless.

1. Begin by cutting straight through the skin where the leg meets the breast. Pull the leg away from the body with the fork and continue to cut down, close to the body, to find the joint where the thigh meets the body. Pull the leg out supplementary and slice right straight through the joint to take off the leg and thigh.

2. Place the leg skin-side down and locate the line at the joint where the thigh and the drumstick meet. Keeping your knife along this line of the thigh, you can slice precisely straight through the joint. If you hit resistance, adjust your angle and try again. Cut down straight through the line and separate the thigh from the drumstick. Repeat this process with the other leg.

3. take off the wishbone (actually the collarbone) from the turkey. Removing the bone will forestall it from splintering when you carve the breast meat.

4. Next, run your knife straight through the skin along one side of the breastbone. Then cut down along the ribs, pulling the meat Gently away from the bones in one large piece, leaving behind as tiny meat as possible.

5. When you reach the wing joint, cut straight through it and continue to take off the breast from the body. Repeat with the other side.

6. Finally, take off the wings and slice the breast meat before serving. (For even, enchanting slices, cut the meat against the grain.)

================================

So, there you have it...everything you need to know about successfully roasting a turkey.

As you can see, establishment a turkey by adhering to the techniques above is not at all difficult. The small number of attempt you spend will be well rewarded when the final product reaches the serving table and your guests rave about how precisely mighty it is. Just remember one thing - serving a juicy, flavorful roasted turkey does not have to be reserved solely for the holiday season - it's wonderful anytime of the year.

Copyright ©2005 Janice Faulk Duplantis

Turkey the Old-Fashioned Way

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Wednesday, April 25, 2012

Rustic Country Decor - How to Decorate cottage Style Homes

Rustic country decor and how to decorate bungalow style homes are extensions of American country style decorating. In addition, traditions are borrowed from French, English and some Swedish country looks. Rustic country decor can be defined as coarse, charmingly simple, unfussy, unfinished and yet with endearing qualities. Rustic country decorating includes the use of natural woods, aged surfaces, rough finishes and easy lines. bungalow style homes are comfortable, modest, quaint homes that can be made of thick stone or log wood.

Floors in rustic country decor and bungalow style homes are made with stone or wood materials. Wooden floors were traditionally constructed with boards that were bare and simply waxed and hand-polished (high-gloss varnishes did not exist). Sometimes the boards were painted with light colors. If you like floor coverings, use oriental rugs and throws for optic warmth and color. Rustic country decor is about handcrafted objects, simplicity, furnishings that you enjoy and connecting back to nature.

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Rustic bungalow furniture is generally made with pine and maybe painted with hand-painted designs such as flowers, birds, animals, country landscape or leaves. Use ladderback chairs, rocking chairs, benches, wicker furniture and Windsor chairs. A large rectangular table made of pine is a good choice for your kitchen or dining room table. To give your furniture a rustic look, brush a coat of paint on the furniture piece, then rub most of the paint off. After it dries, apply wood stain unevenly for an older weathered appearance. It will be excellent and rustic looking!

Baskets can be used to store wood, pine cones, flowers, plants and needlework. Brass candle holders, oil or kerosene lamps, sconces, hurricane lamps, tin lanterns, recessed ceiling fixtures or a vintage wrought-iron or metal chandelier furnish prosperous lighting for rustic country decor and bungalow style homes. Colors used in rustic country decor or bungalow style homes are neutral tones ranging from white to bone, earth tones, red barn, blues and greens.

For rustic country decor in the kitchen, use open shelves, hutches, buffets, plate racks and cupboards for storage. Often, country kitchen warehouse is crammed with stoneware pots, plain glazed porcelain and glass jars. Kitchen pots should be made of copper, steel or cast iron -- cookware tends to be large and plain. Use open shelving in the rustic country kitchen to display plates, dishes and dinnerware collections. Natural woods, light colors and enthralling fabrics work great for window treatments. Adding a rustic butcher block island creates a phenomenal optic consequent as well as provides beneficial functionality.

A rustic country decor bathroom has neutral tones or soft colored walls, antique-looking lighting, and wooden antiques or old pregnancy cabinets and vanity. Knowing how to decorate bungalow style homes and bathrooms can consequent in creating a calm and elegant atmosphere. Clawfoot tubs, pedestal sinks, country style old brass faucets and old-fashioned country cabinets furnish the kind of climate that makes you want to spend time there. Plain white towels are recommended instead of patterned or enthralling contemporary patterns. Use wicker or wire baskets to keep your sponges, loofas and shampoos handy near the tub or shower.

Understanding how to decorate bungalow style homes means along with items like quilts, old furniture or reproductions, flea-market pieces, trunks, chests, armoires, stenciling, wallpaper, adirondack chairs, flower wreaths and cafeteria chairs. These types of elements give bungalow style homes the kind of rustic country decor that is simpler, very personal and warmly inviting.

Whether in a seaside setting, an urban environment, a countryside location or a wooded mountain retreat, bungalow style homes are cozy and unassuming, combining the past with the present. Read all you can find and learn what creating the rustic country bungalow means to you no matter where it's located. Enjoy expressing your personality and showing what the definition of home means to you.

Copyright 2005 InfoSearch Publishing

Rustic Country Decor - How to Decorate cottage Style Homes

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Monday, April 23, 2012

Top Ten Things to Do in Spring

It must be serendipity that I am in currently in the janitorial business and that I enjoy cleaning. I use my skills as a sales and marketing director to sell my ritual of welcoming spring.

While some habitancy enjoy lounging, daydreaming or reading when the days are still cool but sunny I enjoy tying up loose ends and beginning with a "clean" slate. So what if others do not share my enthusiastic spring dance in honor of mother-nature! Why do they insist on their own dance and will not applaud my magnificent performance? Here are my favorite things to do in spring:

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1. Spring clean & de-clutter home & office:

Make a caddy of your basic tools. I use multi-purpose cleaner, microfiber cloths, lamb's wool extension duster, furniture polish, disinfectant spray, trash bag and a laundry basket to put items I am removing from the room. If your ceilings are high you may need a small step ladder. I also have a broom to get behind furniture I can't move and for rug edges and corners. A vacuum with attachments is also very handy. Place your tool exterior the entrance of the room you are cleaning. Give each room a thorough, top to lowest cleaning. This is the exquisite time to launder the curtains and bedding. If you are up to the challenge you can also flip furniture cushions, mattresses and rearrange the furniture. The best advent I have found is to start each room at the entrance door and circle the room. Start your high dusting, touching all surfaces on the walls such as picture frames, shelves, etc. If the curtains are not going to be taken down, remove the dust on the tops & fabric folds. Cobwebs can get anywhere, along with the flat walls. Get under and behind the furniture with the duster and/or broom. Dust inside the window frame. Wash the windows. Use a microfiber with just a mist of all-purpose cleaner and dust the surfaces you can reach. The last thing I do is use my disinfectant spray and vacuum.

2. Get rid of clothes not worn:

I bring storage containers or boxes and kitchen trash bags and a black marker. First go through the shelved clothing, second the clothes that are hanging and third clothes that are in drawers. Make a pile on the floor of clothes that should be place in the garbage. Box up the seasonal things you are going to keep. Things you are giving away put into the trash bags. Use the marker and put your name and season of clothes on the boxes. Label the bags with the person's name you are giving them to, yard sale or Goodwill. Store away the seasonal boxed clothes, put the give-away clothes in your carport or auto so you will not forget to take them away.

3. Clean yard, porches & garage:

All of these are good for family team work, but this one especially is. The carport needs and occasional de-clutter and cleaning. You will need a broom, fullness of boxes or plastic containers, a black marker and maybe some white mailing labels to write on. If you have a large major emergency in there you may want to copy the show "Clean Sweep" and get out three tarps on the drive or yard. Tarp amount one is for things to keep, tarp amount two is for giving away or yard sale, tarp three is trash. When you have all out that you can, you may now dust, sweep and/or pressure wash. Originate tools by their use and season. Keep the yard tools together, organery tools and the basic fix tools together, etc. The sports tool and toys are also organized and the off season sports tool and toys should be boxed and put up. Tarp amount one "things to keep" will be boxed up and labeled and neatly put back into the garage. Tarp amount two "things to give away or yard sale" should be boxed, bagged or price tagged for yard sale. Label the give-away or yard sale items and neatly put back into the garage. Tarp amount three "trash" items need to be bagged if they can fit into garbage receptacle or hauled to the dump if necessary. Now the carport is neat and clean!

4. Completely information autos:

Have a contest with person if you are detailing two autos! Guard yourself from the sun. Tools needed are a vacuum with attachments, trash bag, towels, paper towels, 2 microfiber cloths and a large terry cloth, two old large beach towels, a long handled car wash broom if you have one, and a stiff brush for the wheels & tires and bucket & sponge. I also fix a small caddy with window cleaner, Mr. Clean, some Q-Tips, Armor-all, Febreze, car wash, wax with an applicator or soft cloth and tire "black" spray. Start on the inside and fill up your trash bag with any garbage in the auto. Look under seats and in the cracks of the seats. Pick up items that will hurt your vacuum. Take out all the carpets and lay them down to vacuum. Then fill a bucket with about a gallon of water and an ounce of Mr. Clean. Use this water first to scrub the seats with a very damp cloth, it may remove some stains and it smells good. Then wash the dash, wheel, seat dividers and inside the doors. Constantly clean your cloth in the bucket. Dip Q-tips in the water and use to get the dash cracks, corners and areas the cloth couldn't get into. Spray Armor-All on a microfiber cloth and wipe down the dash and hard plane surfaces made from similar material to shine up and make like new. When closed put that cloth away from the others so you will not use it again. Time for the inside windows! I use a window cleaner and paper towels to wash all the inside windows, then I go back over them with a microfiber cloth and it undoubtedly polishes good. The last thing I do is vacuum the carpet. Be sure to adjust the seats send and backward to get all areas. Last I give the fabric and rug a spray of Febreze, considered avoiding my windows. Vacuum the carpets that you took out. If you want to Originate the trunk and vacuum, this is a good time. Now get the windows up and shut the doors. Empty your bucket and refill with fullness of water and a little carwash. Hose down the whole auto and wash by sections. Immediately rinse off each section as you go nearby the auto. When you think you are done walk nearby the auto for any touch-ups. Now use your stiff brush and scrub the wheels and tires a few times, then rinse. Hose off the carpets you removed and let air dry. Use a beach towel to dry off all areas of the auto. After drying and no water spots it is time to wax. My favorite auto wax is the new spray on wipe off type, but if you are using the paste wax it is done the same way. Put wax on a section at a time, and then remove it with the second beach towel. Let the paste wax dry before buffing off. Again check all nearby the auto for any areas that need touched up. After waxing I wash the windows with paper towels and then polish with the microfiber cloth. Your wheels and tires should be dry by now so you can spray your "black" spray on them. Now that is a sparkling beauty!

5. Get planting beds & flower containers ready:

You can start seedlings indoors or wait for the nursery centers to stock your favorite plants. Guard yourself from the sun. Tools you may want for the large planting beds are a tiller (if large area) rake, shovel, organery claw, landscape fabric or plastic, gloves, trash bag potting soil (my favorite is Miracle Grow with the water retention material). First pull all weeds and place in trash bag. Rake the exterior of leaves, old mulch and debris, put in trash bag or compost bin. Use shovel or organery claw to turn the soil (till if large area) and mix in your potting soil. After the area is complete, cover with the landscape fabric or plastic. When you are ready to plant, cut holes in the landscape fabric or plastic and place plant where you want. To finalize your flower gardens, cover the fabric or plastic with mulch or rocks. For the flower containers, if they have previously been used they must be washed and let air dry. When the weather is warm sufficient you can plant. Place some large stones or broken earthenware pieces in the lowest for drainage. Fill pots ¾ of the way full. Resolve where to place your plants and surround them with potting soil and firmly press down. Give a good drink of water. Check on weekly to remove dead material and water if needed.

6. Start seedlings indoors:

Pick a few seeds you want to start, veggies, herbs, flowers (Burpee is my favorite brand). You can use a sun lamp, although I never have. Just don't start too early or they will grow too large before you can transplant. The easiest way is to get the jiffy pots ready for water and seeds. You can also use a rectangle receptacle like a cake pan and fill with potting soil and sprinkle on the seeds and water. Pour off excess water. Save your seed envelopes to mark your plants or you won't remember what you are growing and where. When the weather is warm sufficient and all chances of icy are over they can be transplanted either in a ready bed or container.

7. Write down new things to do in the summer and fall:

I like to write down things I haven't done in a while, new things or things to do with particular friends and family; go to museum with mother; watch movie with Linda. Learn how to rollerblade, take a painting class, run a marathon, go boating and so forth. I have things to do indoors for rain and outdoors for sunshine. Keep your list next to your calendar and when you want something to do check one off. Make arrangements a week or so ahead so you will have a full collective calendar.

8. Begin a customized fitness plan:

First program a check up with your family physician and make sure you are okay to come to be more active. Define what you want to accomplish and a date to accomplish this by. If you have more than one goal, do this for every goal. Example: I want to lose 30 pounds by August. Next step is to plan out how you will accomplish this. Example: I will clean out my kitchen and replace with wholesome low calorie foods. I will walk one mile every day. I will lift weights thirty minutes every other day and so on. Keep definite affirmations and motivational post-its on your bathroom mirror and refrigerator.

9. Get a new hair cut, hair style or color:

Be browsing the magazine for cuts and color you like to get an idea or two. Visit your favorite hair salon or one that a friend refers. Ask the stylist to propose a cut and or color for your complexion, lifestyle and budget. Ask questions with regard to maintenance before you decide. Your cut must be quick and easy to claim if you lifestyle is very busy. If you are young you can undoubtedly go more dramatic and bold. If you are more mature or have a work you may want to stick with some first-rate styles and color, but distinct than you usually get. This is a great ego boost and when you are definite and happy, it will rub off on everyone nearby you.

10. Take a long walk, hike or bike ride in a scenic area:

This is a great family outing, or couples and friends outing. Bring your dog if you can. If you have a favorite park or recreation area, plan a day and a picnic for this event. This could ba a great way to scout out a camping area. Take the basics, sandwiches, fruit and water. Dress for the chance and don't forget sun protection. Bring a rain jacket or wind breaker in case the weather suddenly changes. Let person know where you are going and bring a cell phone. Bring a Frisbee or football to mix things up. Just enjoy the time to spend with good company and appreciate the beautiful earth.

With a "clean" slate completed there is still ample time to soak up all the crisp air and sunshine. I feel I have closed something great and it makes me feel frightful about the next great season!

Look for more articles coming soon!

Top Ten Things to Do in Spring

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Friday, April 20, 2012

Saniflo Macerator Repairs and Problems

The three (3) biggest problems you are likely to face when you have problems with your Saniflo or any macerator that is not working, is:

The smells arrival from the broken macerator and/or minor flooding. seeing a engineer that can unblemished the work quickly and will have parts with them. The Cost, some times the fix bill can be more than the price of a new macerator.

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So exactly what can you do, here are few tips:

For the smell all you can authentically do is open the loo room window and close the loo room door to keep the smell contained in one room and some fresh smelling spray could help, this is only for a broken macerator, if your unit is working Ok and the smell is the main or only question then there are other options available to you, like internal cleaning, new carbon filters and important a breather pipe to the exterior of your property. There authentically is very limited point in calling a engineer that does not have all the major parts for your macerator on board as stock. Many citizen who have problems with their macerator just call a local or friend or plumber, but they plainly will not have the parts or fully understand how the macerator works and will often just condemn a perfectly fixable macerator, by far your best option is to call some one that authentically understands the macerator and will have spare parts with them and preferably some one that will offer a inexpensive fixed price fix service. The cost of repairing a macerator is regularly nearby £100 - £150 + parts, and parts are not high-priced if you do need them. But many citizen will end up paying a lot more than £150 and most of that charge will be for the extraction and re-installation of the macerator, the cost of the macerator fix can all the time and I authentically mean all the time be kept to a minimum with a bit of consideration at premise and planning as to how will the macerator be taken out for maintenance. If you think your premise may pose a few problems with extraction and/or re-installation, and remember this is separate from the actual fix even though in most cases you would be charged one continues charge, the fix of some macerators in some installations can not start until extraction is complete, then ask, "if there is a extraction charge, what is it? " you can expect this to be hourly as the engineer in most cases could not know how long it will take, but regularly even in the most extreme cases less than 1 day and in some cases you will not be charged for uncomplicated extractions where there as been good time to come planning for maintenance as extraction will be quick and easy or not needed

Often when a macerator is installed there is very limited consideration as to how repairs will be carried out, this can be a very high-priced mistake, there is one sure fact you can be assured of, and that is that all electrical or mechanical items will stop working one day and your macerator is no different.

We all want our bath room/loo seeing as nice as possible, but just like you would not permanently tile in and fix in your washing machine so that it could not be taken out for repairs with out taking out the kitchen tiles and kitchen cupboards, it is nearly all the time a very high-priced mistake to install your macerator in this way, this can be authentically avoided with uncomplicated planning and by remembering the rule below when planning.

The rule is "last in will be first out and the first in will be last out", this uncomplicated rule along with saniflo's published 10 golden rules can save you hundreds if not thousands of pounds in fix bills, what it means is that when installing your macerator and bath room/loo the last thing to be installed will nearly all the time be the first and easiest thing to take out and the first thing to be installed will nearly all the time be the last and hardest thing to take out, for this narrative were talking generally about tiled rooms.

Example 1: if you do your planning, put your macerator in place first, associate the pipes up, push up the loo against the macerator, unblemished the tiling up to and nearby the loo and macerator, when you need repairs, and one day you will, you may need to lift some tiles to be able to remove the loo so that the macerator can be taken out and repaired.

Example 2: if you plan for maintenance, then you would unblemished the floor tiling first and put both the loo and macerator on top of tiles manufacture sure there is sufficient room to authentically remove the macerator with out the need to remove the loo or any tiles, any boxing in would be held in place with short screws and sealant manufacture it easy to remove for time to come fix work

As you can see in example 2 the first thing to be fitted would be the tiles and the last thing to be installed by the plumber would be the macerator and loo, so when maintenance is needed, it is quick and easy to get access to the macerator with out the need to remove the loo or tiles, every premise is unique and different, so its up to you to ensure the planning for time to come maintenance for your specific installation, but remember the rule

Simple as this may sound, many citizen do not realise that their macerator as been installed as in example 1 until it develops a fault and and the repairs start, but also many citizen do not have tiles down and have easy access to the macerator, in both cases seeing a macerator engineer with fixed prices that carry sufficient stock parts is a good idea, as a engineer without parts is more likely to just condemn the unit for their own benefit, I have also include a link below to a perceive that will offer you the fixed price macerator repairs service

Saniflo Macerator Repairs and Problems

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Wednesday, April 18, 2012

proper Land Drainage is Important!

Many property owners are not implicated with yard drainage until they have a problem. Water simply follows the path of least resistance to lower elevations and problems arise when former pathways constructed by the builder become blocked or were inadequate from the beginning. Not having suitable slopes and drains on a property to direct or divert water runoff can allow the water to find a path directly to areas where you would least want it such as foundations, under pavement, in your basement etc. Flooding basements and cracked foundations are good wake-up calls to the issue but addressing problems beforehand can save you thousands of dollars, and headaches, down the road.

The two categories of water supplying a lawn are face and subsurface. Subsurface water refers to the water below the first layer of topsoil which cannot permeate any lower due to the tightness of the soil beneath. Also known as the water table, all soil has this layer of water with differences in depth depending on the area. Although a high water table can be a problem in some areas, in general, face water is the cause of excess subsurface water as too much face water penetrating the ground can raise the water table. face water sources are rainfall and irrigation, such as sprinklers, and can be particularly troublesome in urbanized areas which comprise numerous impervious surfaces.

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Streets, driveways and parking lots simply leave nowhere for rainwater to go. As with a lawn, the runoff will whether pool in depressions or flow to soil colse to the edges causing saturation in an additional one area. When soil reaches 100% saturation, with little or no drainage to support in excess water removal, not only do pools of water collect, but the saturated soil takes much longer to dry out. This excess water retards plant growth by decreasing aeration in the root zone and decreasing nutrient supplies. Additionally, excess water in the soil will growth icy damage in the winter months. Having allowable drainage on your property will preclude water from collecting colse to your construction or home foundations, minimize soil erosion and help safe your vegetation from death and disease.

Surface and subsurface are the two types of drainage solutions and both are vital protections for buildings and lawns. face drainage refers to the natural pathway taken by the water following rain or irrigation and is achieved straight through gutters, downspouts, face grates, exposed French drains and by shaping and grading your lawn to furnish maximum face water discharge with minimum soil erosion. Subsurface drainage refers to pipes and drains placed in the lawn which remove excess water that has gravitated underground, whether straight through holes in the soil or simply from soil saturation. Water travels straight through soil by capillary action, which is much like a paper towel - when one side gets wet, moisture will moderately voyage to the dry side until the entire substance is saturated. Once the soil is saturated, subsurface French drains are needed to remove excess water. In doing so, subsurface drainage keeps plants healthy, helps soil to warm earlier in the spring and leaves less water to frost in the winter, minimizing frost heaving damage to your home or building.

Problems linked with improper drainage

Improper drainage can lead to pools of collected water in your lawn and/or colse to your home or building, both of which pose a threat. When collected close to your foundation, standing water can potentially cause foundation cracks, foundation movement and flooded basements. When collected on your yard, pooling water gives mosquitoes a breeding ground and can leave your grass susceptible to disease.

Foundations: The most precious issue linked with improper drainage is your foundation. Soil simply expands when it is wet and contracts when it is dry and as long as all the soil underneath your construction expands and contracts uniformly, it is not likely to cause a problem. Damage is done, however, when only part of the soil heaves or settles. This differential movement is most often due to differences in soil moisture. Improper drainage on one side of the construction can leave wet soil that remains waterlogged for days or weeks (or in worst cases leaves constant water pooled colse to your foundation walls) while the other side of the buildings has soil that dries swiftly following a rain.

The wet side has expanded, and remains so, while the other side contracts as it dries, and this operation pulls the walls of the buildings away from one another. Repetition of this process will finally yield cracks in the foundations, walls and/or ceilings. Foundation repairs are not usually covered by homeowner's guarnatee policies and can cost as much as ,000 to ,000 or more to fix, not along with cosmetic fixes to drywall, door jams, bricks, flooded carpets, flooring, etc. Anything who has experienced a flooded basement or cracks due to heaving can attest to a precious fix! In addition, the drainage issues which caused the problem will still need to be addressed.

Basements: The same issue linked with foundations applies to your basement, with the added problem of letting water into your home straight through the cracks. In increasing to damaging carpets, flooring, drywall and furniture, the water increases your basement's humidity creating the perfect environment for the growth of bacteria and mold. Mold enters your home as tiny spores, which need moisture to grow and multiply. They can grow on approximately any face and they suck up and destroy your home as they do. When disturbed, mold spores are released into the air and can be breathed in by you and your family, aggravating allergies and asthma. A small estimate of molds yield mycotoxins which can induce nausea, fatigue, headaches and lung and eye irritation when a someone is exposed to high levels. Furthermore, mites and spiders can proliferate in a moldy basement as mites feed on mold spores and spiders feed on mites.

Waterproofing your basement can help safe your home and is a good guarnatee policy, but your first line of defense against a wet basement is enhancing the drainage in the lawn and all areas surrounding the home or building. According to most engineers and home inspectors, 85 to 95% of wet basements and interiors of buildings can be made dry by enhancing face drainage colse to your house or building.

Mosquitoes: We are all well-known with one of the biggest nuisances of the summer but were you aware that mosquitoes need less than an ounce of water in which to lay their eggs? While standing water is commonly the egg-laying site for mosquitoes, some species lay their eggs on damp soil and, if your lawn has poor drainage, leaves your grass as a perfect home for these pests. Needing only two to three days to hatch, your property needs to be able to dry out swiftly adequate whether to preclude females from looking your yard as a prime location or to dry out eggs that have been laid.

With females laying up to 300 eggs at a time, your yard can honestly become infested, driving you and your family inside on warm summer nights. Along with the itching and aggravation of bites, mosquitoes bring diseases such as West Nile Virus, Malaria, Dengue and encephalitis. All are potentially fatal. Your pets are also at risk, as mosquitoes are the hosts for heartworm and can recite this disease to dogs, cats and other animals. Additionally, West Nile and encephalitis can be transmitted to horses. The American Mosquito control association instructs property owners to not only eliminate standing water colse to your home or building, but to ensure allowable drainage on your property to eliminate this potential hazard.

Turf Diseases: As the first impression a visitor or customer has of your home or business, it is no doubt leading to you to have well-maintained and intriguing landscaping colse to your property. Death and disease of grass and plants is not only ugly, it is a waste of money invested as well as costly to correct. Excess water on or in your lawn prohibits the growth of grass, plants and trees by robbing them of their air and nutrient furnish and leaving them susceptible to assault by fungi, moss and mold. Fungi, the most tasteless cause of lawn diseases, are little organisms that spread by air- or water-borne spores. The spores act like seeds, sprouting to life and infecting its environment when conditions are right.

Rhizoctonia Yellow Patch, Red Thread, and Pythium Blight are some tasteless fungi diseases which appear in moist environments resulting from ultimate soil and face moisture. Many of the fungi diseases are difficult to control once they appear and damage may remain for two to four years following treatment. While fungicides can be applied to help preclude or control lawn diseases, several strains are defiant to fungicides. The best stoppage is the absence of suitable conditions, along with enhancing moisture conditions on top of, and under, your turf.

Mushrooms also need ultimate wet conditions to grow. While mushrooms do not harm grass, many of them are poisonous and can be a danger to children and pets that ingest them. Poisonous mushrooms have no features to distinguish them from nonpoisonous mushrooms and identification, therefore, is only potential by those educated about the various genera and species.

Erosion: In increasing to the issues linked with standing water, water intriguing too swiftly off your property causes problems as well. As raindrops fall on your lawn, if there is adequate intensity, the impact will dislodge small particles of soil which can then be carried off by the rain as it flows. This soil will whether be carried off to sewers or deposited in an additional one area of your yard, depending on your drainage conditions. Over time, former drainage measures, such as ditches and trenches, can become filled with soil, defeating their purpose and redirecting how water moves on your property. Erosion is accelerated where plant cover is sparse and spaces in the middle of plants become larger, leaving no safety for your soil during intense rains. allowable grades and slopes stop water from carrying away your soil by holding water runoff at an thorough rate. Slowing down water that is running off too swiftly gives soil particles time to decide out of the water and back onto the ground before being conveyable too far away. Additionally, salutary plant life with deep roots protects and holds on to your soil.

Benefits of allowable drainage

Structural Protection: Having a uncut drainage principles in place protects your buildings by preventing water's damaging perceive with concrete. Water that doesn't evaporate and isn't absorbed by soil finally goes somewhere and, oftentimes, it sits under and colse to your foundations. Drainage solutions will keep the moisture article colse to your foundation carport and uniform, holding contraction and expansion to a minimum. This maintains the integrity of foundations and helps preclude cracks and water seepage.

Plants and Landscaping: allowable soil moisture is valuable for plants and lawns to create a salutary root system. discharge of excess water in the soil deepens the root zone and increases the air in that area. The increased aeration, in turn, increases the furnish of nutrients, many of which need the air to change chemically before they are accessible to plants. The deep root principles which grows will then holds on to the soil and safe it from erosion. Additionally, water will not pool in areas of your property, leaving turf susceptible to disease, and help you sound the pleasing aesthetics in which you invested.

Recreational Areas: By implementing drainage solutions, recreational areas, such as parks, golf courses and athletic fields, enhance traffic ability and increased use of the property. Drains help nature clear out excess water and allow turf to swiftly recover from rain. The corollary is that the recreational area can be open for extended periods of time and for more oppressive use, resulting in increased revenue.

Spring showers are not the only cause for concern

The Midwest is notorious for ultimate weather changes with a drought one year and floods the next. While St. Louis has an midpoint rainfall colse to 40 inches, in 2008 we had 50.72 inches pour down on us, with nearly half of that estimate advent in the middle of June and September. If you have weathered winter snow and spring rains, do not let down your guard thinking you are safe for an additional one year. Summer can sometimes bring surprises and the added deluge to your soil will only intensify existing problems requiring more uncut repairs.

A note about water tables

Water table refers to the depth at which the soil all the time contains 100% water. In some areas the water table is higher than the lowest of the foundation, requiring a complex principles of drains and sump pumps to draw the water away from your structure. High water tables can lead to devastating damage to your foundation or basement and is sometimes cited by professional waterproofers as the cause of a problem because of the costly measures to strict it. The National association of Home Builders, however, estimates that only five percent of wet basements are due to high water tables. If you have water damage, you are most likely dealing with face runoff problems which can be corrected straight through slopes, grades and drains in your yard, along with allowable gutter systems. Contemporary construction codes preclude contractors from construction basements where water tables are high and if your home or construction is less than 30 years old you can be reasonably sure a high water table is not your problem. If you have a wet basement, be aware of this issue! wise up yourself by contacting your local construction inspector and getting facts about your local water table.

Do you have drainage problems?

Try this experiment: dig a hole one foot across and two feet deep and fill it wholly with water during a dry spell. If the hole drains wholly in less than five minutes or in more than 15 minutes, you have a problem. A more uncomplicated way to spot problems is to look at your lawn during and following a rain. If you have water flowing swiftly across the yard removing topsoil during a rain or pools of water on driveways, parking lots or lawns following rain, then you have a problem. Other indicators comprise yellowing plants, yellowing or thin turf although it receives plentifulness of sunlight and has no inescapable disease, fungus or mold on the lawn, stagnate water smell and water seeping straight through door sills, basements and garages.

Types of drainage solutions

A uncut drainage principles will comprise face and subsurface drain solutions. face drains remove the large amounts of water that fall in short periods of time and subsurface drains remove the excess water absorbed into the soil. The two systems work in conjunction to sound the moisture in your soil at the allowable level for safety of your landscaping and your home or building.

Gutters: Your first line of defense against foundation flooding is your gutters! during a moderate rainfall, the midpoint sized roof sheds 160 gallons of water runoff per hour. To preclude the runoff from being deposited on the ground next to your foundation, a allowable gutter principles is essential. Not only is the strict gutter size for your roof area a consideration, but an insufficient estimate of downspouts is equivalent to having no gutter principles at all. Downspouts are needed to cope the volume of runoff your roof will derive and splash blocks must be utilized to direct the runoff away from your home or construction and out to your drain system. A best solution to splash blocks, however, is to install Pvc piping to the end of the downspouts to remove the water 6-10 feet or more away from your home or building. Furthermore, gutters must be properly maintained to preclude clogs and gutter joints must be inspected for leaks. Having a suitable, productive gutter principles should be the first step in your drainage solution.

Grades: To safe structures, the most leading grades on your property are those within 10 feet of your foundation or basement. This will preclude the water you just diverted away from the buildings from soaking back straight through the soil toward your structure. suitable grades vary depending on who you consult but a safe estimation is a 1 inch (or more) drop for every 1 foot out for the first 10 feet. This results in at least a 10 inch slope for the 10 feet closest to your foundation walls. The rest of your yard should comprise a continuous slope downward to keep the water intriguing away from your foundation.

Surface Drains: face drainage can be defined as the controlled discharge of water that collects on the land from rainfall, irrigation, snowmelt or hillside seeps. As gravity is the former force driving this type of system, it involves shaping the land with a continuous fall in the ground level to furnish a downhill passage for face runoff at an thorough rate of flow. For grass drainage channels, or swales, a minimum slope of 1% to 5% is desired. The contours of the land then direct the runoff to a suitable range site, such as ditches, basins or storm sewers. At the low point of the ditch or interception point, area drains are installed which are linked to a main or submain and prevents the water from pooling in your yard. The secret pipes need a minimum slope of 1% or 1/8 inch per foot to keep water intriguing straight through them. If the ditch is long, several smaller drains should be spaced in a series, rather than one large drain in the middle, to help preclude erosion.

For driveways and other hardscapes, channel drains and exposed French drains are ideal. These linear trenches derive sheets of water that run off, as concrete and asphalt suck up none of the water as it falls. The open area of the channel/ exposed French drain is much greater than an area drain and is best distinguished to the greater volume of rain it will need to collect. Additionally, channel drains allow designers to modestly slope hardscapes, rather than requiring numerous, ultimate slopes to direct runoff to area drains.

Subsurface Drains: While the benefits of subsurface drainage are hard to see because they occur within the soil, the dissimilarity will be noticeable in your plants, grass and soil. Subsurface drainage is the discharge of gravitational water from the soil, which is ended by placing French drains secret to derive and remove water to a drainage outlet. Subsurface drains do not remove water valuable for plants, only excess water, which flows to the drains by gravity. Sub-Surface French drains consist excavating a great trench and lining it with a filter or geotextile fabric, which helps preclude soil particles from entering the French drain. The trench is then filled with clean rock/gravel and a allowable sized perforated Pvc pipe for the application is placed in the gravel.

Once the trench is filled with grave, it will be covered with a layer a permeable filter fabric, installing a aggregate of high ability topsoil/ sand and lastly installing new sod on top (assuming this French drain will be placed in a grassy area). French drains function when water in the soil enters the gravel bed, flows into the perforated pipe and travels straight through connecting solid pipes to a discharge point. A general guideline for placing French drains is to use 4 - 6 inch perforated pipes, bury them 18 to 36 inches deep and space them 15 to 20 feet apart. In the trenches, pipes must sound a .1% to a 1% slope. Soil construct, acreage and turf usage, however, may wish dissimilarity from these guidelines and a professional can help you decide the best solution for your situation.

Discharge Outlets: Once water is collected in the pipes, it must be diverted to a suitable outlet to be released. This outlet can be a street gutter, a storm sewer or an onsite pond. Using a pop-up drainage emitter, water can be diverted to a water-safe area on your property away from your home or building. Pop-up drainage emitters are opened by the hydrostatic pressure of water flowing straight through the drain pipe, releasing water collected from gutters, downspouts, basins, grates, etc. If placed close to the street, the released water can flow over the curb and into the street without having to drill straight through the curb. The emitters then close as water flow diminishes, preventing debris and animals from entering the end of the pipe and clogging the system. property owner or maintenance personnel need to make sure they achieve habit maintenance on the pop-up emitters. This can be done by removing the pop-up to make sure there is no debris washed down from the roof gutters or face drains that could potentially slow down the water flow in a heavy rainfall event.

Cleanout Connections: It is a good idea to install cleanout connections on all drainage systems integrated into your property. This is commonly overlooked until pipes need to be accessed by cameras or cleaning equipment years after the first installation. Passage points are needed for the following three reasons. 1) habit maintenance, and especially if habit maintenance is neglected because the contractor will have to Passage the pipe to unclog them for a fee of course. 2) If the systems functionality has declined. 3) If damage has occurred to the drainage principles pipes from heavy equipment or excavation during an on-site construction project. Although cleanouts add cost to your project, it is highly recommended to have cleanouts installed on all downspout connections, all French drain systems and all long mainline pipe runs over 80' without drain grates in which you can access.

Before contracting to have you scheme installed, make sure cleanouts are integrated into your drainage system. It has been calculated that the cost to cut into a pipe and then patch it because there are no cleanouts will be a minimum of twice the cost as having them installed in the first place. Sometimes it is 5-10 times as much when Passage is needed to an existing French drain without cleanout connections. So don't gamble because when you're installing a principles with materials that last decades, you honestly will need access; if for nothing else, habit maintenance. A professional drainage contractor should be able to help you decide the best cleanout points for the principles their proposing for your property.

 Finding & Hiring a distinguished drainage contractor

Doing your homework on potential drainage installers is important. You need to be assured that your contractor is insured and has the skills needed to properly install your systems. Be wary of "special deals" or the "great deal from a friend of a friend" - these will most likely cost you more dollars and headaches in the long run.

Tools for Locating a potential Drainage Contractor: The best company Bureau is a great beginning point in your quest for a contractor. They sound an online directory for Bbb-accredited businesses in your area. You can check not only how long a contractor has been in business, but also any complaints filed about their operation. Angie's List is an additional one great tool for recommendations, as you can get testimonials from actual customers. Even if you "hear of a guy from a friend," check their references online. See what other people's experiences have been and select a pool of potential contractors from the best you can find.

Portfolio and References: After you have a list of potential population for the job, ask to see a portfolio of their former jobs and whether you can see former worksites. If possible, see their handiwork in person, possibly driving by a home or company during or after a rain. This will help you not only to understand their drainage plans for your property, but to assure you they can honestly get the job done right. If you can speak with former customers, ask if they were satisfied with the work, whether the contractor stayed within allocation and if the scheme was completed in a timely manner. You need to look for the best someone for the job, not the lowest bid. You want the problem to be fixed upon scheme completion; you do not want to be dealing with drainage problems or, in worst case scenarios, legal problems, long after the contractor has left.

Bids: Get at least two bids for your specific job and get them in writing. Furthermore, make sure you understand the dissimilarity in the middle of the bids. Higher bids do not all the time mean a contractor is trying to get more money into his pocket. best materials, more skilled workmanship and best reliability may be worth a slightly higher price. Keep in mind that, usually, you "get what you pay for."

Insurance: An leading issue when hiring a contractor is his insurance. If your contractor does not carry general liability guarnatee or worker's compensation, the property owner can held responsible for any accidents which occur while work is being done. To safe yourself, ask for proof of insurance. Reputable contractors will understand that you are doing your explore and will not be offended. Be wary of any that try to convince you this is unnecessary - they may have something to hide.

Skills Needed: Make sure potential contractors have the skills needed to do your job. Is your contractor a drainage master or merely a landscaper who has dabbled in drainage installation? Can he use a transit to analyze your slopes if needed? Does he know the allowable depths and spacing for pipe placement in your yard? Most importantly, is he diverting your excess water to a suitable outlet? Purposefully diverting water to a neighbor's yard, when runoff didn't already simply flow to that yard, can corollary in huge fines. As the property owner, you will be held responsible for your contractor's end result.

Equipment, administration & scheme Site Management: Find out who will supervise the work and how often will they be onsite to see that the plans are followed? Will the scheme continue daily until ended without interruption other than weather delays? You need to know who to call if you have a request or problem. Furthermore, does your contractor have Passage to the equipment needed to get the job done?

Products: Which products does the contractor use and are they the best in the industry? Be wary of contractors that offer a big discount because they will use materials left over from a former job. While you may be concerned in recovery a few bucks, are you inescapable these materials are suitable for you scheme and needs? Having the scheme done with substandard materials that will not last never ends well for the property owner. You might have to have the principles torn up and reinstalled a join years later, costing you double down the road.

Warranty: Make sure there is some sort of a warranty with your drainage principles premise once it is complete. More importantly feel inescapable adequate with the company that they will even be in company to fulfill that warranty agreement. See if they can give you a past customer that you can call to talk to where they had a warranty issue that the contractor successfully resolved for them. Many specialized drainage associates offer a minimum of a 12-month warranty of full functionality, some contractors offer more.

Warning: We know of a family who hired a contractor that a friend's neighbor had used. Although they met with him and conception he seemed like a "good guy," they did no explore on him or his company and references were not checked. After realizing that no real expand had been made in spite of the thousands of dollars they had paid him, they began to investigate. As it turns out, the friend's neighbor had had similar complaints and was dissatisfied. If the homeowners had spoken to the population for whom the contractor had worked, rather than going by their impression of his personality, they would have been spared a good chunk of change. In increasing to leaving their home a unblemished mess, they lost all the money initially invested and had to pay someone else to cease the job. Furthermore, because they had not done their due diligence regarding the contract, they had little legal recourse. The lesson: all the time err on the side of caution! Do not assume that a contractor has your best interests at heart; look at their former jobs and, if possible, consult population for whom they have worked. Most population are happy to tell you about their experiences with a business, whether good or bad, and businesses with a solid credit are not wary of you looking their former work.

Copyright © 2010 Team Green Outdoor Inc. All ownership reserved

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Monday, April 16, 2012

How Inventors Shape Our Lives everyday

Picture this- Millions of population do this routine: After waking up, they get up and take a shower; they use an iron board to press out their work clothes; since the room is pretty warm, they turn on the air conditioner to cool off; After using a hair brush in order to get ready for work, they go downstairs, open the refrigerator door to make some eggs. Then they use an egg beater to make some scrambled eggs. After breakfast, they leave for work after getting their cell phone and use the key on their key chain to lock the back door. So what does an iron board, air conditioner, hair brush, refrigerator, egg beater, cell phone key chain and lock have in common? All of those just mentioned products were created by African-Americans.

This record will focus on African-American Inventors who made products that we used practically every particular day. These inventors created some phenomenal products that a lot of population didn't know, but sadly in the era of Jim Crow, they never received the reputation or for that matter reap in the fortune that they richly deserve. In some case, these inventors created the stock and without providing a patent for their invention, told population about their new creation. Since the stock was not patented, these population would go somewhere to steal... I mean...make their own product, slap their name on it and gain instant fame. While doing investigate in this topic, it is truly phenomenal to find out that each creator made their stock with very primitive material, unlike the technology that we have in today's world.

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Here's the list of each creator and their creation. You will be surprised by what is on the list!

Inventor---Invention ---Date of Invention

A.P. Ashbourne---Biscuit Cutter---November 30, 1875

Benjamin Banneker ---Almanac ---1791

Patricia Bath ---updated a device to remove cataracts---1988

Miriam Benjamin ---"Gong and Signal" chair (Used in Hotels) --- July 17,1888

Edward Berger---Spark Plug---February 2, 1839

Henry Blair---Seed Planting Device---October 14, 1834

Henry Blair---Cotton Planting Device---1836

Sarah Boone---Iron Board---December 30, 1897

Bordy and Surgwar Folding Chair June 11, 1889

Otis Boykin operate Unit for Pacemaker 1961

Benjamin Bradley---A Steam Powered Warship Engine--- 1856

Henry Brown---Fire/Burglar unyielding Safe---November 2, 1886

L.A. Burr---Lawnmower---May 19, 1889

Charles Brooks---Street Sweeper---March 17, 1890

Lee Burridge & Newman Marshman---Typewriter---April 7, 1885

T.A. Carrington---Stove---July 25, 1876

George R. Curruthers---Far-Ultraviolet Camera and Spectrograph---November 11, 1969

W.C. Carter---Umbrella Stand---1885

George Washington Carver---Peanut Butter--1839

M.A. Cherry---Tricycle---May 6, 1886

G. Cook---Auto Fishing Device---May 30, 1899

A.L. Cralle---Ice Cream Scooper---February 2, 1897

David Crosthwaut, Jr.---Heating theory for Radio City Music Hall--- 1934

George Crum---Potato Chip--- 1853

Mark Dean--Led his team to generate 1st gigahertz computer processor chip---1999

O. Dorsey---Door Stop---December 10, 1878

Paul Downing---Mail Box---October 27, 1891

Charles Drew---Blood Plasma---1945

T. Elikins---Chamber Commode---January 3, 1897

Henry Faulkner---Ventilated Shoe---1890

O.A. Fisher---Furniture Caster---1878

Robert Flemming Jr. Guitar March 3, 1866

Sarah E. Goode--Folding Bed--July 14, 1885

George Grant---Golf Tee---December 12, 1899

William S. Grant---Curtain Rod Support---August 4, 1896

Blessie Blount Griffin---An electronic feeding device for amputees---1951

Michael C. Harvey--- Lantern---August 19, 1884

Joseph Hawkins---Metal Oven Rack---1800's

L.R. Johnson--Bicycle Frame--October 10, 1899

Lonnie Johnson--Super Soaker--November 13, 1989

P. Johnson---Eye Protector---November 2, 1880

Willie Johnson---Egg Beater---February 5, 1884

Frederick M. Jones---Movie label Dispenser---June, 1939

Frederick M. Jones---Motor---June 27, 1939

Frederick M. Jones---Air Condtioning Unit---July 12, 1949

Lewis Latimer---Electric Lightbulb---March 21, 1882

Joseph Lee---Automatic Bread manufacture Machine---August 7, 1894

Joseph Lee---Bread Crumb engine June 4, 1895

F.D. Loudin---Key Chain---January 9, 1894

J.C. Love---Pencil Sharpener---November 27, 1897

W.A. Martin---Lock---July 23, 1889

Alexander Miles---Elevator---October 11, 1867

Garrett Morgan---Gas Mask---October 13, 1914

Garrett Morgan---Traffic Light---November 20, 1923

Lydia O. Newman---Hair Brush---November 15,1898

Robert Pelham---Tabulation Device---December 19, 1905

Robert Pelham---Tallying engine for U.S. Census---1913

Walter Purvis---Hand Stamp---February 27, 1883

William B. Purvis---Fountain Pen---January 7, 1890

Lawrence P. Ray---Dust Pan---August 3, 1897

John W. Reed---Rolling Pin---1864

A.C. Richard---Insect Destroyer Gun---February 28, 1899

W. H. Richardson---Baby Carriage---June 18, 1889

J. Ricks---Horseshoe---March 30, 1885

James Robinson---Lunch/Dinner Pail---February 1, 1887

G. T. Sampson---Clothes Dryer---June 6, 1862

Henry Sampson---Cell Phone---July 6, 1971

S.R Scratton---Curtain Rod---November 30, 1889

John Standard---Refrigerator---June 14, 1891

Thomas Stewart---Mop---June 11, 1893

Benjamin Thornton--A device that was the precursor to the reply Machine---November 10, 1931

Madame C.J. Walker---Straightening Comb---1905

Ulysses S Walton---Dentures--- March 23, 1943

John Thomas White---Lemon Squeezer---December 8, 1893

Jerome Wicks--Patio Door Lock and WindowGuard Protection---April 20, 1982

Daniel Hale Williams---1st successful Open Heart Surgery---July 9, 1893

Joseph Winters--Fire flee Ladder--May 7, 1878

Granville T. Woods---Auto Cut-off Switch---January 1, 1839

Granville T. Woods---Phone Transmitter---December 2, 1884

It's a shame that the majority of theses inventors did not live adequate to gain the recognition that they deserve. The goal of this record is to shed light on these great population and their contributions to society.

How Inventors Shape Our Lives everyday

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