Top 3 Ruby Tuesday Recipes

Ruby Tuesday has great food. I'm sure you know what I mean if you have ever dined there. I love the burgers, steaks, salad bar, and all in between. They are one my top cafeteria choices if I want a burger or a salad for dinner. Ruby Tuesday has other yummy food too. I just recently started researching Ruby Tuesday recipes. I was surprised at the estimate of facts available. If you are struggling to pay your bills in a tough economy, you might want to reconsider making some of these Ruby Tuesday recipes at home. If you want to try three Ruby Tuesday recipes, here are my top three recommendations along with the along recipe.

Ruby Tuesday Turkey Burger
1 tablespoon garlic powder
1 tablespoon red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon dried minced onion (optional)
1 egg
1/2 cup crushed cheese flavored crackers

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Preheat a grill for high heat.

In a large bowl, mix together the ground turkey, garlic powder, red pepper flakes, minced onion, egg and crackers using your hands. Form into four fat patties.

Place patties on the grill, and cook for about 5 minutes per side, until well done.

Ruby Tuesday Crab Cakes
1 lb. Crab meat
1 egg, beaten
1/2 cup Saltines, crushed
1/3 cup fresh parsley, minced
2 tablespoons mayonnaise
1/2 teaspoon paprika or Old Bay seasoning
cayenne pepper or Morton's Hot Salt
onion powder for sprinkling
butter or olive oil for frying

Remove any shell from crab. In a medium bowl, toss together crushed Saltine cracker crumbs, egg, parsley and mayonnaise until moistened, but do not over mix. Add salt and pepper.

Form into five or six cakes, 1/2 to 3/4 inches thick. Place in refrigerator on cookie sheet for at least one hour so they will set up. Sprinkle lightly with cayenne or Morton's Hot Salt and onion powder.

In a heavy skillet, fry crab cakes in butter (or olive oil), turning once until both sides are nicely browned (about 10 minutes).

Ruby Tuesday Broccoli Salad
1/3 cup hot water
4 tlbs. Sugar
4 tlb. Vinegar
1 cup mayo
2 heads broccoli cut into small pieces
16oz sharp cheddar cheese cut up
2 lbs bacon cooked crisp and crumbled
1 medium red onion minced

Put broccoli in a bowl.
Dissolve sugar in hot water.
Pour over broccoli
Add remaining ingredients mix well, refrigerate for a couple hours

Top 3 Ruby Tuesday Recipes

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Dual Pane Window Glass fix

For the past few weeks, I have been explaining how to heal a broken window pane in your home. But, what if you have dual pane windows? Is the process the same? Well, pretty much, except for a integrate of variations. So, let's spin the single pane heal process, and I will point out the differences regarding dual pane windows.

When we start talking about dual pane windows, one of the first things that comes to mind is vinyl window frames instead of aluminum. When dealing with dual pane windows, you can have either aluminum or vinyl frames, depending on the year the house was built. Dual pane glass got favorite in the 1980's, but vinyl frames didn't categorically catch on until the 1990's. So, if your house is less than 10 years old, chances are you have vinyl framed windows. In either case, I will discuss the differences. Let's say you have a sliding aluminum frame window with dual pane glass. The course for removing the frame from the occasion and the glass from the sash is the same as with the single pane windows.

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The differences are, first, the glass goes into the frame about twice as far as the single pane window. The single pane window glass went 1/4" into the surrounding rubber. The dual pane ordinarily goes 1/2" into the rubber. So, if both pieces of glass have been broken, you are going to have to order a new Igu (Insulated Glass Unit) from the local glass shop. They are going to want to know the width, height, broad thickness, and perhaps the private glass thickness. The best way to get the dimensions is to quantum the width and height from rubber to rubber, write those numbers down. Then, take off the panel from the occasion and place it on a table like we did with the single pane window. take off the screws from opposite corners and pull of the frame. You will be able to see how far the glass goes into the surrounding rubber. If it's 1/2", then you want to add 1" to the width and height that you measured previously (1/2" times two sides= 1"). Then, quantum the broad thickness of the unit by removing the rubber from the glass edge.

Typically, this dimension is 1/2", but not always. There is a metal spacer that divides the two panes of glass. Make a note of the color so you can request the same color in the new Igu. It's either going to be silver or bronze. If you want to get the same size spacer you need to give the glass shop the thickness of each piece of glass in the Igu. If the old unit has 1/8" glass on both sides, and the broad thickness of the unit is 1/2", then they will use a 1/4" spacer. If the glass is 3/32" on both sides, they will use a 5/16" spacer. If you don't care about matching the spacer thickness, you can request the thicker 1/8" glass, and they will automatically use a 1/4" spacer.

When you get the new Igu home, the facility is the same as the single pane window. Now, what if only one side of the Igu has been broken? Many times the outer pane will break, but the inside pane is fine. You can order a whole new Igu Like we just did, or, if you're the adventurous type, you can order only the single pane of glass that was broken and replace it. I'm going to explicate how to do it, then i'm going to tell you the things that can go wrong. After you have the window pane on the table with the surrounding frame removed, you will see a black rubber type substance around the edge where the spacer is applied. This is a butyl sealant, and you have to cut off the broken glass from this butyl. The best way to do it is to take a utility knife with a new blade and break straight through the butyl where it meets the broken glass. Then, take a new hacksaw blade, and push it into the area where you sparated the butyl from the glass. You don't want the hacksaw blade to be attached to a hacksaw. Using your hand, saw back and forth as you work your way around the edge of the glass. This should allow you to take off the glass.

Once that's done, lay rags on top of the good piece of glass to catch any debris, and scrape the face of the spacer that will be contacting the new glass. Use a putty knife. Then, take off the rags and debris. When you are ready to put the new glass on, clean the inside of the good piece of glass that you didn't remove. Remember, once you install the new glass, any debris or finger marks on the inside will be constantly sealed. So, clean it real good and check it from all angles. Do the same to the side of the new glass that will be going to the inside of the Igu. Then, run a thin bead of clear silicone around the whole perimeter of the spacer. Set your new glass on the spacer and use finger pressure to bind the glass to the silicone all the way around.Then, come in from the side, and run silicone around the side where the glass and spacer meet. Cover the window occasion with something for 24 hours. You do not want to touch the Igu for 24 hours. The silicone needs to cure. After 24 hours, you can assemble the unit and install it back into the opening.

There are a integrate of things that can go wrong. The first one is leaving marks on the inside quantum of the glass. Once you seal the glass, you cannot clean what's between the panes. The other thing involves condensation between the panes. If you have even the slightest break in the silicone seal around the glass, chances are you will beging to see moisture form as soon as the nights get cold and the days get warm. You are going to have to rule if you are certain sufficient in your quality to do the job right, or if it's good to pay the extra money to have it done for you. Just because you pay person to do it, doesn't mean you still won't encounter the same problems. The unlikeness is, they have to guarantee their Igu for a minimum of 1 year. I have received many units over the years that had marks in between the glass. The charm of it is the maker can't dispute it, because there's no way anyone else could have done it except them.

Ok, what if the window frames are vinyl instead of aluminum? Well, the main unlikeness is the glass in a vinyl window no longer has the rubber gasket around the edge. You dont take off the opposite angle screws and cut off the frame from the glass. What they do is put either silicone or a two sided tape on the lip of the frame where the glass rests. That's what holds the glass in the frame, then they apply a snap in stop on all four sides of the glass. So, you have to take off the stops first, then turn over the panel and break the seal holding the glass to the frame using a utility knife. Wear gloves during this procedure. If only one side of the Igu is broken, don't even think about repairing just the one side. You will never get that Igu out of the frame without breaking the other piece of glass in the process. But, on the certain side, you can take off the stops without taking the panel out if it's a slider. You can then quantum the dimensions of the glass, and order the new Igu. That way you eliminate any need to temporarily cover up your window. The same is true for the stationary quantum of a slider, or a photograph window. Before you install the new Igu, be sure and clean the lip that had the tape or silicone, and apply either silicone or tape. either will work.

You will observe that replacing an Igu in an aluminum frame window is a whole lot easier than a vinyl window. But, in either case, you can do it yourself and save a few bucks.

Dual Pane Window Glass fix

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When to Use Fiberglass Entry Doors With Sidelights

Some homes must undergo tougher locations and more movement than others. When a house is without fair weather, or has more habitancy inspiring around, in and out, the front door feels the brunt of these harsh conditions. One popular solution to these problems are getting fiberglass entry doors with sidelights. The use of fiberglass as covering material for doors is borne out of its resistance to warping, splitting and rotting compared to wood, especially under those severe conditions. It is energy-efficient as it insulates three to five times great and permits natural light into homes. It is also supposed to be eight times stronger than vinyl and twice as strong as steel. The addition of sidelights is not only to fortify entry and patio doors with extra reserve and insulation but also beautify doors additional just like accouterments of a fireplace or wall.

Sidelights are narrow panes or windows added to the side of doors or larger windows. A door may have a particular sidelight on one side or bifold sidelights flanking whether side. This is often thought about by the width of the entryway. Houses where the entryways are wider than general door sizes could use fiberglass entry doors with sidelights, one or two depending on what can fit in the entryway. A wood grain covering on these doors, which mirrors older solid wood doors, finished with assorted wood textures, is one of the most inspiring qualities to buyers. Another is the make using fiberglass and composite material, which provides resistance to air and moisture penetration, insect damage and rotting, and stainless steel in assorted parts, which provides resistance to corrosion.

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Installation should be considered. For one, the door components do not disassemble easily. The actual door is likely attached to the frames of the sidelights, or a joiner accommodates the door unit and the sidelights. The threshold of the door is likely one particular unit under the door and the sidelights. Replacing whether just the door or the sidelights, or the frame from the threshold, may cause real damage. When priming, pre-finishing or pre-glazing comes proper with the product, it adds magnetic appeal to remodelers and homeowners. Glazing ensures that glass is protected and easy to clean. Priming gets the covering of the door ready for painting, pre-finished with a mahogany, oak or cherrywood staining. In this electronic age, it also still matters that the door has increased security, such as security against forced entry in the jamb, lockset & deadbolt areas.

Quality should never be neglected, especially that fiberglass entry doors with sidelights constitute an entire door system with assorted components. Established door makers add enticement with tighter capability operate and easier product access. Masonite operates one of the biggest research & development facilities, and Milgard makes most parts internally through its vertically integrated production. Benchmark by Therma-Tru is distributed exclusively at Lowe's stores, and Feather River, at Home Depot stores. SureFit provides full-service factory with sales support. An unabridged store network providing fast, convenient access to products, and the bonus of doubling as a expert factory service, categorically makes for additional enticement.

When to Use Fiberglass Entry Doors With Sidelights

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Rough Openings For Doors

One of the most prominent parts of framing walls is getting
the rough openings right. Items that rule what the
height of One of the most prominent parts of framing walls is getting
the rough openings right. Items that rule what the
height of your opening will be are floor finishes and the
use of underlayment. Door widths will stay constant with the
size of a approved door.

In new building most doors are hung after the floors are
installed. This allows flooring contractors (tile, hardwood,
vinyl, laminate) to lay their flooring products without
making tricky cuts around door jambs. It also makes for a
neat and clean door installation. Exceptions to this are
carpeted floors. Doors are hung before the carpet is
laid. When doors are hung in carpeted areas, its a good idea
to shim them up 1/2", putting a shim under each jamb leg.
This eliminates the need to cut the doors down after the
carpet is installed.

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For a 6' 8" high door (80 inches) I like to frame my rough
opening height at 82 3/4". This allows room for all the
situations mentioned above. If your header material is a
double 2x12, keeping it to the top plate will give you that
height.

Rough openings for door widths are pretty much standard. The
rough opening width is 2 inches wider than the door itself.
this allows room for the door jambs which are commonly 3/4"
thick. This gives you almost 1/2" of play and shim
room when installing a prehung door. For a 36" door (3' 0")
the rough opening width would be 38". Here are the most
common door sizes and their rough openings.

Door Size Rough opening Size

2' 0" x 6'8" -26" x 82 3/4"

2' 2" x 6'8" -28" x 82 3/4"

2' 4" x 6'8" -30" x 82 3/4"

2' 6" x 6'8" -32" x 82 3/4"

2' 8" x 6'8" -34" x 82 3/4"

2' 10"x 6'8" -36" x 82 3/4"

3' 0" x 6'8" -38" x 82 3/4"

To outline the rough opening for double doors or french
doors, take the door size times 2 and add 2". The most
common sizes for outside doors are the 2'8" and the 3'0"
doors. The 2'8" is commonly used for the back door and the
access door from the garage. That size door for outside use
is being used less these days because of the size of
appliances and furniture. outside doors with sidelights and
sliding patio doors rough openings vary from constructor to
manufacturer. These should be verified and gotten from the
supplier.

Getting the rough openings right the first time keeps the
sawzall in its carrying case and having to change the
opening after the walls are drywalled and painted.

Mike Merisko (c) 2006

http://www.sawkerfs.com

Rough Openings For Doors

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The Ways An Air Conditioner Compressor Can Fail, and What To Do About It

Air conditioner compressors normally fail due to one of two conditions: time and hours of execution (wear out), or abuse. There are some failures that can occur elsewhere in the theory that will cause a compressor failure, but these are less base unless the theory has been substantially abused.

Usually abuse is a corollary of extended running with improper freon charge, or as a consequence of improper aid along the way. This improper aid can comprise overcharging, undercharging, installing the wrong starter capacitor as a replacement, removing (rather than repairing/replacing) the thermal limiter, insufficient oil, mixing incompatible oil types, or wrong oil, installing the compressor on a theory that had a major burnout without taking proper steps to take off the acid from the system, installing the wrong compressor (too small) for the system, or installing a new compressor on a theory that had some other failure that was never diagnosed.

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The compressor can fail in only a handful of distinct ways. It can fail open, fail shorted, touch a bearing failure, or a piston failure (throw a rod), or touch a valve failure. That is pretty much the whole list.

When a compressor fails open, a wire inside the compressor breaks. This is unserviceable and the indication of illness is that the compressor does not run, though it may hum. If the compressor fails open, and following the steps here does not fix it, then the theory may be a good candidate for a new compressor. This failure causes no further failures and won't damage the rest of the system; if the rest of the theory is not decrepit then it would be cost effective to just put a new compressor in.

Testing for a failed open compressor is easy. Pop the electrical cover for the compressor off, and take off the wires and the thermal limiter. Using an ohmmeter, quantum the impedance from one terminal to someone else across all three terminals of the compressor. Also quantum the impedance to the case of the compressor for all three terminals.

You should read low impedance values for all terminal to terminal connections (a few hundred ohms or less) and you should have a high impedance (several kilo-ohms or greater) for all terminals to the case (which is ground). If any of the terminal to terminal connections is a very high impedance, you have a failed open compressor. In very rare cases, a failed open compressor may show a low impedance to ground from one terminal (which will be one of the terminals linked with the failed open). In this case, the broken wire has moved and is contacting the case. This health - which is quite rare but not impossible - could cause a breaker to trip and could corollary in a misdiagnosis of failed short. Be faithful here; do an acid test of the contents of the lines before choosing how to trek, with repair.

When a compressor fails short, what happens is that insulation on the wires has worn off or burned off or broken inside the compressor. This allows a wire on a motor winding to touch something it should not touch - most ordinarily itself a turn or two further along on the motor winding. This results in a "shorted winding" which will stop the compressor immediately and cause it to heat up and burn internally.

Bad bearings can cause a failed short. Whether the rotor wobbles enough to touch the stator, resulting in insulation damage that shorts the rotor Whether to ground or to the stator, or end bearing wear can allow the stator to shift down over time until it begins to rub against the stator ends or the housing.

Usually when one of these shorts occur, it is not immediately a hard short - meaning that initially the touch is intermittent and comes and goes. Every time the short occurs, the compressor torque drops sharply, the compressor may shudder a bit visibly as a result, and this shudder shakes the winding enough to detach the short. While the short is in place, the current straight through the shorted winding shoots up and a lot of heat is produced. Also, normally the short will blow some sparks - which produces acid inside the air conditioner theory by decomposing the freon into a blend of hydrochloric and hydrofluoric acid.

Over time (possibly a couple of weeks, normally less) the shuddering and the sparking and the heat and the acid cause insulation to fail rapidly on the winding. Ultimately, the winding loses enough insulation that the inside of the compressor is admittedly burning. This will only go on for a few minutes but in that time the compressor destroys itself and fills the theory with acid. Then the compressor stops. It may at that time melt a wire loose and short to the housing (which can trip your house main breaker) or it may not. If the initial cause of the failure was bad bearings causing the rotor to rub, then normally when the thing ultimately dies it will be shorted to the housing.

If it shorts to the housing, it will blow fuses and/or breakers and your ohmmeter will show a very low impedance from one or more windings to ground. If it does not short to the housing, then it will just stop. You still construct the type of failure using an ohmmeter.

You cannot directly diagnose a failed short with an ohmmeter unless it shorts to the housing - a shorted winding won't show up with an ohmmeter though it would with an inductance meter (but who has one of those?) Instead, you have to infer the failed short. You do this by establishing the the ohmmeter gives normal readings, the starter capacitor is good, power is arriving at the compressor, And an acid test of the freon shows acid present.

With a failed short, just give up. Change everything, together with the lines if possible. It is not worth fixing; it is full of acid and therefore is all junk. Further, a failed short could have been initially induced by some other failure in the theory that caused a compressor overload; by replacing the whole theory you also will get rid of that inherent other problem.

Less commonly, a compressor will have a bearing failure, piston failure or a valve failure. These mechanical failures normally just signal wear out but could signal abuse (low lubricant levels, thermal limiter removed so compressor overheats, persisting low freon health due to un-repaired leaks). More rarely, they can signal someone else failure in the theory such as a reversing valve problem or an expansion valve problem that winds up letting liquid freon get into the suction side of the compressor.

If a bearing fails, normally you will know because the compressor will sound like a motor with a bad bearing, or it will lock up and refuse to run. In the worst case, the rotor will wobble, the windings will rub on the stator, and you will wind up with a failed short.

If the compressor locks up mechanically and fails to run, you will know because it will buzz very loudly for a few seconds and may shudder (just like any stalled motor) until the thermal limiter cuts it off. When you do your electrical checks, you will find no evidence of failed open or failed short. The acid test will show no acid. In this case, you might try a hard-start kit but if the compressor has failed mechanically the hard-start kit won't get the compressor to start. In this case, replacing the compressor is a good plan so long as the rest of the theory is not decrepit. After replacing the compressor, you must thought about analyze the execution of the whole theory to decree Whether the compressor problem was induced by something else.

Rarely, the compressor will touch a valve failure. In this case, it will Whether sit there and appear to run happily but will pump no fluid (valve won't close), or it will lock up due to an inability to move the fluid out of the compression accommodation (valve won't open). If it is running happily, then once you have established that there is admittedly fullness of freon in the system, but nothing is moving, then you have no choice but to Change the compressor. Again, a theory with a compressor that has had a valve failure is a good candidate for a new compressor.

Now, if the compressor is mechanically locked up it could be because of a couple of things. If the compressor is on a heat pump, make sure the reversing valve is not stuck half way. Also make sure the expansion valve is working; if it is blocked it can lock the compressor. Also make sure the filter is not clogged. I once saw a theory that had a locked compressor due to liquid lock. Some idiot had "serviced" the theory by adding freon, and adding freon, and adding freon until the thing was thoroughly full of liquid. Trust me; that does not work.

Should analysis show a clogged filter, then this should be taken as certain evidence of some failure in the theory Other than a compressor failure. Typically, it will be metal fragments out of the compressor that clogs the filter. This can only happen if something is causing the compressor to wear very rapidly, particularly in the pistons, the rings, the bores, and the bearings. Whether the compressor has vastly insufficient lubrication Or (and more commonly) liquid freon is getting into the compressor on the suction line. This behavior must be stopped. Look at the expansion valve and at the reversing valve (for a heat pump).

Often an old theory experiences enough mechanical wear internally that it is "worn in" and needs more torque to start against the theory load than can be delivered. This theory will sound just like one with a locked bearing; the compressor will buzz loudly for a few seconds then the thermal limiter will kill it. Occasionally, this theory will start right up if you whack the compressor with a rubber mallet while it is buzzing. Such a theory is a good candidate for a hard-start kit. This kit market power and, when the compressor is told to start, dumps extra current into the compressor for a second or so. This overloads the compressor, but gives some extra torque for a short time and is often enough to make that compressor run again. I have had hard-start kits give me an extra 8 or 9 years in some old units that otherwise I would have been replacing. Conversely, I have had them give only a few months. It is your call, but inspecting how cheap a hard-start kit is, it is worth trying when the symptoms are as described.

And this, in a nutshell, is what can happen to an air conditioner compressor and what you can do about it.

The Ways An Air Conditioner Compressor Can Fail, and What To Do About It

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The Atmos Clock - Perpetual Motion?

The Atmos Clock called, erroneously, the perpetual request for retrial clock, first saw the light of day in the early seventeenth century.

It's close to perpetual motion, but no cigar! It violates the Second Law of Thermodynamics, as well as the law of conservation of energy, since it fails to yield energy from nothing. Not only that, but these clocks do wish servicing, normally every 10 to 20 years. Perpetual request for retrial would mean the negation of disagreement and any other element that might stop the clock, meaning that there would never be the need for assistance of any kind.

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There is an energy source, ethyl chloride gas, stored in the shape of a very noteworthy hollow spring, set in a large drum at the back of the clock. Just one degree of temperature convert has the corollary of retention the clock running for two days. A plate face this spring acts on another, much weaker spring, which in turn is associated to a chain attached to the mainspring. In this way the clock is kept wound. So either the temperature rises or falls, the inequity will all the time wind the clock.

Cornelius Drebbel made such a timepiece for James the First of England, and also one for Rudolf the Second of Bohemia. These clocks relied on atmospheric pressure and temperature changes to keep them wound.

The Enlightenment saw an experimental clock made in 1760 by James Cox and Joseph Martin. This clock relied plainly on atmospheric pressure.

It wasn't until 1928 that the first Atmos appeared as we know it today. Invented by a gentleman named Jean-Louis Reutter, it carries the unofficial name of Atmos 0. This was followed by the Compagnie Generale de Radio, a French company, bringing out Atmos 1, using mercury and ammonia bellows to power it. On 27th. July 1935, Jaeger Le Coultre stepped in and advanced the second design, Atmos 2.

A word about how Jaeger Le Coultre came into being. The firm was originally started in 1833 by Antoine Le Coultre. It took until 1903, however, that the enterprise as we know it today was born. Edmund Jaeger, of Paris, threw down the gauntlet and challenged the French watchmakers to yield pocket watches that were wafer thin. Jacques-David Le Coultre, the grandson of Antoine, took him up and did really make a superb pocket watch of tiny cross section. So the partnership came into being. Now, they are situated in the Valee de Joux, in the Swiss Jura Mountains.

Reutter spent a long time examining the movement of the 400 day clock, and utilized the torsion pendulum and suspension spring for his Atmos. This spring holds the heavy brass pendulum, considerably heavier than a 400 day, but the carrying out is very much the same.

The bellows filled with ethyl chloride occasionally need to be replaced. When they come from the material house, they're bound tight with a thin steel strap. To plainly cut this strap and then expect to drop the bellows in place is an exercise fraught with despair. The best way of fitting them is to place them in the frosty compartment of your refrigerator so that the bellows contract. The strap will plainly fall off, and you are then able to place the bellows in the drum and replace the back, which is a bayonet fitting.

The movement itself is small, delicate and fully jewelled. I do not suggest placing the minute plates in an ultra-sonic cleaner. It's possible to shatter the jewels in this way. Wash the plates by hand in a good cleaning explication and 'peg them out'- run pith wood through the holes until they're clean. The pallet jewels should be examined and scraped clean, again with wooden slips. Never apply oil. The power is so delicate that oil will have a retarding effect

There's no inquire that the Atmos is a noteworthy clock - but not quite perpetual motion

The Atmos Clock - Perpetual Motion?

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Translations of Some base Jamaican Phrases

Phrases are often used in Jamaican Patois. The exact meaning of a phrase is dependent on the situation in which it is used, or on the speaker's intonation. We'll take a look at some generally used Jamaican phrases and, when applicable, we'll give an alternate meaning for some of these phrases.

The following are some generally used phrases in Jamaica and their translation.

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Wha Gwan

The phrase 'wha gwan' is used as a greeting in Jamaica. Let's break this phrase into its private words. The word 'wha' means 'what' and the word 'gwan' means 'going on.' Therefore, the Jamaican speaker is request 'what's going on.' This a very tasteless phrase and it is frequently used as a greeting in Jamaican Patois. You'll hear it often so it's worth remembering.

Yuh Cris

The phrase 'yuh cris' means 'are you okay' if the speaker's intonation has a questioning tone. 'Yuh cris' is also frequently used to greet people. The phrase 'yuh cris' can also have an alternate meaning depending on the intonation. An alternate meaning of 'yuh cris' is 'you look good.' Therefore, the speaker could be telling someone that he or she is good looking.

The phrase 'yuh cris' can have yet someone else meaning and, as previously stated, it depends on the situation and on the intonation. For example, when someone enters a business in an English speaking country, an laborer might greet them at the door and ask 'do you need anything' or the laborer might ask 'can I help you with something?' The phrase 'yuh cris' could also be used in this situation to ask someone 'do you need anything' or 'can I help you with something?' Here, we see that 'yuh cris' is being used to ask if the someone is in need of assistance; however, in patois, there are other more formal ways of request someone if they need assistance. The use of 'yuh cris' in this situation would be carefully informal and would more likely be used among population of the same age group.

Sihdung Deh

The phrase 'sihdung deh' nothing else but means 'sit down there.' The phrase can be used to give instructions to someone. However, depending on the intonation or on the situation, the phrase can have an alternate meaning. For example, if someone is in a serious situation then the phrase "sihdung deh" could be used sarcastically to mean "remain seated there and do nothing." In other words, the someone is not taking the needful operation so the speaker is uses phrase sarcastically to address him. The phrase 'sihdung deh' can be used as a statement, at the chance of a statement or at the ending of a statement. The usage of the phrase, in such situations is sarcastic but it could also be used to motivate the someone into taking action.

Awl an Pull up

"Awl and pull up" is the corporal act of lifting a report off a turntable, in order to stop the music. Although the use of turntables has declined dramatically, this expression is still frequently used in Jamaica. It can be used in just about any situation when you want to say "stop."

In this report we looked at the ubiquitous Jamaican phrase 'wha gwan' and further phrases generally used in Jamaican Patois dialect. We gave alternate meanings for some of these phrases.

Translations of Some base Jamaican Phrases

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